My Equipment

This page is all about the equipment I use, from cameras for movie production to 3D printers for rapid prototyping.

3D Print | Ultimaker 2+

 

After I installed the Extrusion Upgrade Kit my Ultimaker 2+ is now able to switch nozzles (thanks to the Olsson Block). Extremely high detailed objects as well as fast prototypes are possible with this upgrade now. 

 

The Ultimaker is an FDM printer with material (called filament) like spaghettis on spools. By pushing the filament through a heated nozzle objects are build layer by layer.

 

You can see such a spool in the images down below. The videos show the print process as well as the Unboxing of the Upgrade Kit. The unboxing is only available in german, if you are interested in an english synchronized version let me know via mail.

 

More about Ultimaker at https://ultimaker.com

3D Print | Formlabs Form 2

 

As I am working with miniatures and architecture models which need extremely small objects with high detail, I decided to get the Formlabs Form 2. The SLA printer works with resin that is cured via UV laser light to build an object layer by layer.

 

Fine details with up to 0.05 mm layer height are possible with this technique. With this I created miniature people in a 1:55 scale, so a person with 170 cm height is about 3.1 cm in that scale and even their fingers will be clearly visible (You can see images of these models in the following sections RobotMama Designs - Miniatures and Other Designs - Miniatures).

 

More about the Form 2 at https://formlabs.com

3D Print | Creality CR-10

 

I was quite sceptical concerning this printer but many Youtubers showed reviews about it that where overall very good and the price (about 400€) plus it’s large build volume of 300x300x400 cm  convinced me to upgrade my lab with it. I never regretted buying this printer.

 

Building it was incredibly easy and fast and it is working reliably with good quality prints without tinkering too much. Now being able to print large objects like a life-sized top hat or a 1:55 scale architecture model is just amazing. The longest side of my architecture model has a length of 26,2 cm which is about 14,41 Meter in real life.

 

Images of the project are following soon, so far you can check out the miniature I printed with the Form 2 to fit into the model (see sections RobotMama Designs - Miniatures and Other Designs - Miniatures).

 

 

I bought the Creality at https://www.gearbest.com

3D Print | Tools for Printing

 

The following tools additionally support postprocessing and printing. These I use additionally to the tools that came with each printer.

 

FDM specific

 

- rice cooker for Acetone vapor baths to smooth ABS prints

- heatgun, soldering iron and wood burning tool for smoothing and post processing


- sharpened spatula, scraper, cutter knife or pallete knife for removing prints from the build platform
- sewing machine oil dripped over the sponges of a Filament dust filter to allow flexible Filament to run smoothly through a bowden tube

- cloth for removing print residue from the nozzle or glue from the build platform


- glue stick for better adhesion of prints to the build platform
- acupuncture needles for cleaning clocked nozzles
- Filament leftovers for cleaning clogged nozzles with the atomic 90° C method
- art brush with soft bristles (mine is from DaVinci) to clean the printer from Filament and glue residue
- paper clips as Filament clips (like the ones used to fix the glas plate to the build platform) 
- IKEA shelf with acrylic plates and a dehydrator as heated build chamber to print Filament that is sensitive to temperature instabilities (e.g. ABS) and to dry up Filament that is sensitive to moisture (e.g. nylon is absorbing water heavily and printing with moist materials creates bubbles inside the Filament and spoils the print, ABS Is also absorbing moisture)
- watertight plastic storage boxes with desiccant packs to keep Filament dry that is sensitive to moisture

 

SLA specific

 

- silicone spatula (like the ones used for backing) to stirr resin (resin does not stick to silicone)
- paint or lacquer filter with a 190 grid, wooden spatulas, throw away cups (for coffee or drinks) and a holder for the filter and cup to clean resin from spoiled residue (e.g. when a print failed and half cured resin is left in the tank)
- silicone mat (like the ones used for baking) as a  Unterlage for resin tools (resin doesn’t stick to silicone)
- Latex gloves or similar for working with resin and Isopropyl

- lockable Ikea glas bowl for Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning resin from prints and tools
- a UV nail studio lamp for final hardening of resins after printing

- toothbrush, nail brush and Co to wash away left resin from prints and tools

 

General


- files and sand paper to smooth prints
- mini hand plane, cutter and scalpels to remove supports and post process prints
- super glue to glue prints together

- Airbrush for coloring and sand blasting (remove color and smooth prints)
- 130 Liter Ikea Samla Box used to build a sand blasting cabin (if you are interested in a how-to-build let me know via mail or the guestbook)

- Ikea turntable to airbrush prints
- empty Filament spool on a 3D printed horizontal spool holder to airbrush prints (you can even add wooden sticks to it to better attach prints)
- electronics wire cutter and strong nail scissors to cut away supports
- breathing mask and safety goggles for airbrushing and working with ABS, Acetone, Isopropyl alcohol and other health critical products
- pliers and tweezers to remove print residue from nozzles and for holding prints while cleaning them from leftover resin

- UV nail gels and brushes for post processing, gluing prints and coloring or covering FDM prints 


Let me know about the tools you use in your everyday production process in the guestbook. Also let me know if you want to see any tutorial on how to use the above tools.

 

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